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Cool, Thank you.
Thanks. Btw i found a DC auto transfer switch on amazon. https://a.co/d/a6pnd9B I assume i wire the car power to the "DC power source" so when it disappears it switches to "battery power" aka solar power. And the load terminal is wired to the DC in port on my bluetti
Good thing i asked the experts. Any i deas for a way to switch to solar power when i turn off the car? Like some form of diy relay switch
I have a 3d printer in my car powered by a bluetti eb3a. The bluetti is charged by the 12v outlet in my car while driving. I have a 24v solar panel i want to mount to the roof of the car. My bluetti has only one dc 7909 input. So got a a Y splitter to combine power from the car and panel. But when plug it into the car outlet that turns off when i turn off the car, the solar panel turns on the stereo. Thats not the case with the outlets that are always on. I am worried that i will danage the car electrical system from a 24v solar panel flowing electricity back into the car?
Its running off a 5v usb brick. I am trying to alluminate the way to the bathroom for my mom late at night so she won't trip or kick the household black cat. Also I ordered some PIR motion sensors to turn on the LED strip.
Its a product Safety standard. Here is a Wikipedia page. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/UL_(safety_organization)
I am working on a WLED project, using a esp32 in a 3d printed enclosere. But my dad says that i can't install it because it is not UL listed. He is worried if the house burns down, the insurance company won't insure it due to diy electronics possibly starting a fire. What am i to do, i am not developing a project to sell?
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i need help, i am taking a summer college class for a comptia security+ exam. Does anyone know how to set up group audit policy in windows. i need to do this for a lab. i have attached a image of what i need to do.
I have dusted off this project, after shelving it for a bit. I have decided to embed a m8 nuts into the TPU solar panel mount. I want to see if i can embed a ASA printed nut into the tpu print. It should hold up to the elements ontop of my car. I would buy this, https://a.co/d/9Zx6j4k i cant spare to buy it due to being a broke college student living in his parrents house, LOL.
i want to log my car's data over time.
Does anyone know a way to connect a car odb2 port directly to home assisant without the torque pro app?
Yeah the idea to 3d print solar panel mounts with printed threads is probly a bad idea.
I am woking on making solar panel mounts for the roof rack of my nissan xterra from TPU, since it can take a beating. Does any one have any experience with 3d-printed TPU threads? And how much stress before it can take before a bolt rips out? Also should i use teflon thread seal so the a bolt won't come loose?
USBC PD could work for my old monoprice select mini v1 https://youtu.be/VehfqrkoXJA
What about using a 12v barrel jack with a 12v to 24v step up converter. If I remember properly, I think the ender3 v2 requires 24v to the main board. I might be wrong, it could be 12v.
So I was thinking of adding USBC PD to my ender 3v2 for a off grid setup. Is it possible or have I gone mad with USBC? I know it's possible with my old monoprice select mini because of its low power requirements.
He wants to try to use opnsense due to the problems with netgate.
Thanks for the suggestion. I found a 2 port nic that should work, but I will keep looking for a 4 port
So my freind upgraded his network to 2.5gb and has been having trouble with pfsense and opnsense. found out it could be his realtek nic in his dell optiplex router. any cheap 4 port 2.5gb nic's he can try? He can use 2 - 2 port NICs if he must.
Dam, I still got one of them.
yeah is a dead standard, but i got a good audio interface from 2003 dirt cheap off ebay.
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I need help, I bought a um773 lite and I have a thunderbolt 3 to 2 then to FireWire adapters and I can't get it to work with the USB4 port under linux. Idk what bios setting to change. I have done everything I can on the Linux side.
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I was printing a benchy on my monoprice select miniwitha a e3d v6 nockoff and I saw plastic ozzing around my hotend
I dismanteled the extruder. And swapped filament, I think I fixed it.
Its a fairly fresh spool of filament. But I will try another spool.
My ender 3 v2 extruder is crushing the filament and snaps thus the printer fails to print. I have adjusted the extruder tension, nothing has changed. I also upgraded to a 0.6 hardend steel nozzle and I checked if it was the nozzles temperature, that made no difference.
i was setting up postmaster on Linux Mint, and i saw that a lot of UDP requests were blocked from one local IP address. I found out the IP belonged to my parents Samsung smart TV. i loaded up wireshark and found out it is sending UDP requests with different port numbers per request. any ideas what is going on, and how i can stop it.