The initial concept developed by the company involved using heat generated by Bitcoin mining rigs, according to Heata Co-founder and CTO Chris Jordan.

"We literally put a Bitcoin miner in a barrel of mineral oil and plumbed it up to a radiator," he told The Register.

Edit, because I think folks may be confused due to the quote I put in. They are not installing crypto miners into water heaters. That was just their original inspiration. Sorry for the confusion.

"We're not looking at serving real time workloads, we're not doing websites, databases, message queue servers," Jordan explained. "Our ideal job is; here's a chunk of data, go and process that for some hours. And here's the result," he said.

This could still prove useful for 3D rendering workloads, finite element analysis, computational fluid dynamics, and others where there is a lot of CPU or GPU processing, he claimed.

My Keyboard has a chattering problem. On Windows I was able to run a program that would detect this and fix it. I believe I could use the built-in keyboard bounce accessibility feature to solve this, but the lowest setting it will allow me to use is 100 ms. When I type normally I will sometimes push a key that fast (e.g., hitting backspace a lot or in a video game). Is it possible to lower this settings to something like 10 ms? Maybe via the terminal?

Edit:

Potential workaround found. In ~/.config/kaccessrc manually change it to something like 10. Save and reboot. It didn't seem to take hold if I didn't reboot. Even typing this now I am seeing some problems, but I also hear the ding indicating it is working. Change BounceKeysRejectBeep to false to get rid of the ding. A comment on the bug mentioned 40 ms, so maybe that's a good sweetspot.

 undefined

    
[Keyboard]
BounceKeys=true
BounceKeysDelay=10
BounceKeysRejectBeep=true

  

For me it isn't working. Single player works fine. If Crossplay is ON I can see other games on the world map, but time out when joining the lobby. When I disable Crossplay I see none at all. (Yes, this is the opposite of what you might guess based on other issues people have mentioned where disabling Crossplay fixed it.)

Update: I switched to Proton 9 from the Cachy version and it works!

On Windows I use the linked program. I tried using KDE's accessibility settings but the lowest time it can do it 100 ms, which I naturally do on occasion (mashing backspace quickly, for example). Is there any other solution?

This will likely have some technical inaccuracies because I've never dealt with something this specific with PSUs. I have two slots for PCIe. I have a 3070 ti which has two 8 pin connectors. Each of this PSU's cords for the PCIe slots (minus that mysterious 600W one which I think is not for anything I'm doing due to the size) goes from the 12 pin on the PSU to two separate 8 pin connectors (well, 6 with the optional 2).

My gut feeling is to just plug a single cord from the PCIe slots I to the two slots on my GPU. But I'm wondering about what would happen if I plugged two cords into the PCIe slots separately and then put a single connector into the GPU from each. Would that be better/worse/the same/catastrophic?

I'm wondering if it has something to do with dividing the current among the different rails in the PSU or something? It has a little jumper to enable "overclocking" which does something like combining the rails, but I'd rather not fool with that. And it also might be totally u

I've seen some tools that do things like take snapshots periodically and ones that add snapshots to grub, but not this specifically. Does something exist?

This will probably be on EndeavourOS, not Arch directly, if it matters.

Sorry for the horrible picture. It's hard enough to see with my eyes, let alone get a pic.

Using one of those FTDI kenwood adapter programming cables. My gut feeling is no. It would be nice for things like sending/receiving SSTV images.

I am able to transmit if I use a double ended male 3.5 mm cable in the microphone hole of the radio and the headphones hole in my computer, but I have to hold down the PTT button. Also I have to turn the volume on my computer down a lot or else it is distorted. I suspect this has something to do with "line out" versus "headphones" voltage levels (I recall seeing some YouTube video discuss this).

Is there just a gallery of various antenna types/lengths and their radiation patterns anywhere? It seems like there are some programs to make them, but I can't seem to easily get them for Mac and I also don't need something super advanced. Just something showing various "standard" antenna types and their patterns for various wave lengths.

I'm still pretty new to radio stuff and still learning. I have my technician license and have made a handful of contacts. For Christmas I got the RTL-SDR. It has a warning saying "DO NOT use near strong transmitters. Max input: +10 dBm." I am having difficulty understanding exactly what that means and whether I can use my handheld radios near it. These are cheap ~5W radios.

I'm curious about the practical and theoretical both, here. So a simple yes-or-no would be helpful, but I'd also like to know the math.

• Right now, I have a vertical half wave dipole (each leg is 48.8 cm, which I believe makes this a half wave dipole antenna for 146 MHz?) attached to my RTL-SDR. I've been trying to understand gain, but it seems tricky to find and understand the charts. This antenna came with the RTL-SDR, but it's telescoping and that's the length I have it at.
• My radio is 5W and uses a knockoff NA-771 type antenna.

I don't have any other sort of tool to measure the output of my handheld radio.

I'm not sure if this is a weird bug with the search or there's something weird in the database. It's also odd that they show different subscriber counts. Both link to !til@lemmy.world.

Edit: This is related to a known problem as Ategon mentioned. Disregard! :)

Update: Turns out I was too concerned. The manual actually says to use the top rack.

UPDATE: Stopping and reopening the app fixes this. It needs to actually stop though, you can't just switch apps and reopen. Either wait for it to close on its own or force stop. I did not try the main menu method as suggested, though. It may be easier.

Cross posted from: https://feddit.uk/post/20469568

There is a promotion for new hams to get the Explorer QRZ-1 for $22 (along with some software and a cable, but I already have a cable and CHIRP is free). It is normally $60. Is this a good deal? Is this radio worthwhile?

I currently have a Baofeng UV-5R (Baofeng #1 radio! Wooo!) and a TIDRADIO TD-H3. I haven't really made contacts with either and don't know how well they perform. Is this QRZ-1 substantially better?

How poorly would an attic mounted antenna perform? Obviously worse than something outside, I'm guessing, but how much worse?

My office has one of those "side attics." It has a half sized door. Mounting a long antenna in there is very tempting because of how much easier it would be than doing anything outside. It's on the second floor as well.

I hear that a lot but, how bad is it really? Does it affect you (if you use Debian)? Aren't there ways to install newer versions of most things that actually matter?