BudgetAudiophile

I have an older stereo system which I use mostly for listening to vinyl and CDs. I also have a cassette player which I rarely use.

Currently I have my turntable routed to my EQ which then has an out to the 'phono' input on my receiver.

Unfortunately with this setup I can't use the EQ with CDs as my CD player has an 'out' that goes directly to the 'CD' input.

I feel like I had this set up so that I could EQ any input but don't remember how I got this to work. I've googled and haven't found anything that explains this clearly, like I'm 5.

I feel like I had to loop things through my cassette deck or something.

Here are the connections on the back of my Receiver. !

Here is my EQ !

Here is my Cassette deck. !

Any assistance appreciated.

Greetings fellow budget audio enthusiasts, you wonderful people. Today I am sharing my mont hlong experience with the Wiim Pro Plus streamer and DAC, there will be no measurements in this review, if you want measurements be sure to go check out Audio Science Review where the Pro Plus has been extensively tested. Budget Considerations I have no interest in spending thousands of dollars on a network streamer, but as an enthusiast for great sounding audio I want access to apps like Qubuz everywhere I listen. Enter the Wiim Pro Plus, priced at retail around $329 CAD, the Pro Plus can be had on sale for as low as $239, or found on Ebay, refurbished, direct from the manufacturer, for under $200 CAD. eBay is how I bought mine, and I have no regrets in that regard, having eventually received a fully functioning, like new unit.

Customer Service

Let’s jump right into this because it plays a role. My first Wiim Pro Plus from the manufacturer on eBay had dead line-out on arrival. No good. So, I did the regular troubleshooting to confirm the problem and emailed my findings to the manufacturer. Less than 24 hours later I received the following response:

1. Thank you for troubleshooting
2. Here is the tracking number for the replacement, sent express
3. Could you please open a ticket with our engineers so they may log the issue
4. The defective unit has already been refurbished once, and is partially functional, so keep it. This is exactly how I like customer service interactions to go, it was all focused on me and my experience. I cannot recommend Wiim / Linkplay customer service team enough based on this interaction. In the future, I will be connecting my partially defective Wiim Pro Plus to a receiver/DAC to make use of it as a replacement for my much less useful (for audio) Shield TV Pro. Watch for a review on that.

Setup

With my functioning Wiim Pro Plus in hand setup was a breeze, there is one power input, and one RCA/line out to my speakers in the simple, listening nook setup I’m running. I decided to go with active Edifier R1200T speakers for this, considering saving space is a goal here I didn’t want to introduce passive speaker amplifiers into the mix. This lets me keep the entire setup to just 2 power cords, and 1 line out. Very neat and Tidy. The software setup went very well, I was able to quickly download the app, which I have to say works extremely well. You can tell that Wiim/Linkplay was founded with Google and Broadcom veterans because the software quality is high, with intuitive menus and no errors for me to report. Even setup on a second phone was easy. My Audio Nook My Wiim Pro Plus lives in my living room audio nook. It is the only electronics in the room and sits in a recessed shelf near my old Lay-Z-Boy. It’s a comfortable spot where I can turn my chair towards the speakers and just listen in the evening while I have my evening tea. This brings me to the first complain I have about the Wiim, no built in headphone amplifier/output. While I enjoy near field listening over the open air, sometimes I want to not wake everyone up, so this is lacking feature for me. Watch for a future ears-only review when I eventually pick up a headphone AMP for this space, I’m currently leaning towards the FOSI SK02.

Feature Experience

The hardware features a high-quality built-in DAC with Optical and Analog RCA input. I have not tested either of these inputs, I have no use case for them, but they are nice to have. I use the built in DAC to get full quality digital to analog conversion in apps. Most of my listening is through native control using the Wiim app and its Quboz support. The software features access to major audio sources like Spotify, Tidal, TuneIn, Amazon Music and Roon. I have tested most of these apps and can report that playback is of high quality, with the Wiim Pro Plus easily handling each of the supported apps at their maximum streaming quality. You want to get what you’re paying for with these apps, and the Wiim does that with very little configuration. For Youtube music and audiobook/ podcast streaming you need to use Google Chromecast or Bluetooth streaming, which are built in. This is my second issue with the unit, while Chromecast is easy to use, and Bluetooth is also straightforward, the Wiim would benefit from native YT music apps, and native podcasting/audiobook app support. Bluetooth is especially bothersome since audio can be taken over my anything on your screen, and Chromecast, while fine, has all the same issues chromecast always does such as occasional loss of control and slow responses. One of the best features of the Wiim is the ability to easily share access to others in your home, without having to share a bunch of account information. My wife can stream music from the nook using my accounts, on the Wiim, with just the Wiim app. Before the wiim, she needed my login information on an app-by-app basis, which basically stopped her from ever using the services. For us this is a big plus. The Wiim Pro Plus also comes with a parametric EQ. I was able to dial in my speakers to my preference and get a much more on target listening experience than had they not added this option.

Another feature that I’m loving is Bluetooth output. I have long wanted to put speakers on my deck, but lacked the initiative to wire passive speakers outside. With the Wiim Pro Plus acting as a Bluetooth transmitter, I now use the Wiim app to control music while sitting on my deck, streaming to a Sony Bluetooth speaker from the Wiim with no concern over running out of phone battery or having my music interrupted by a phone notification or unmuted ad. This brings me to my third and final issue with the unit, where is the LDAC support? This is a high quality streamer, with capable hardware, Bluetooth 5.1, but relying on lower quality AAC and SBC codecs. No Apt? Fine. But high quality LDAC is free for encoding. So at least offer LDAC for BT transmitting. This would let me use my Sony WH1000-MX4 as a listening solution without having to buy a headphone amp. I thin k the Wiim Pro Plus would benefit from letting users get the most out of their high quality Bluetooth receivers speakers and headphones both.

Closing Thoughts

The Wiim Pro Plus can be had for around $200 CAD refurbished, it doesn’t get much more budget than that. For your money you get a bit-perfect streamer with a capable AKM4493SEQ DAC, a good variety of digital output options and supported setups, a low footprint including cords, a dead simple app experience, excellent customer service experience and broad support for your steaming services. The downsides are few, and specific to my use case, but perhaps we will see some of them addresses in future software updates as Wiim has been known to add support for apps over time, and to add features (like EQ). If you are in need of a network streamer, you really can’t go wrong for the money. I recommend the Wiim Pro plus for budget buyers like me.

This is my pair of AKG k240 MkII. I posted about it 9 months ago here: https://lemmy.blahaj.zone/post/7345872 Since then I grew tired of the original braid and made a new one.

I also wanted to go wireless so I bought the FiiO BTR5 dac/amp which has bluetooth. There's lot's of cheaper BT receivers online but since they are typically advertised for usage in cars I worry about their latency; I do video work so I need low latency to synchronize sound effects, lip sync etc.

I've only ever had bad experiences with BT audio on Linux so I'm pleased to say the BTR5 works almost flawlessly. No issues with pairing or automatically choosing low quality HFP audio (I'm using LDAC; supposedly the BTR5 supports AptX-LL but I'm not seeing the option to enable it, maybe my BT adapter, TP-Link UB500, does not support it, I don't know)

Range is not as good as some other BT headphones I've tried, after a few meters it starts to occasionally cut out. Still far more convenient than cable.

The cable is a bit too long (30cm) but it was the shortest one I could find. I don't know how to make custom cables.

For the price of all of this I probably could've bought better headphones but these purchases were made a few years apart. Plus I kind of like how janky it is, makes it feel homemade even though its all mass produced :)

Hello fine folks, a couple of months ago I shared my experience with Fosi Monoblocks . In the time since I posted about those I have hooked them up with a Wiim Pro Plus for a killer digital music budget setup. Anyway, I was checking out the Fosi 7th anniversary/ZD3 balanced amp launch page and see they have a contest running to win a ZD3, ZA3 and a VOL20. I could make good use of that VOL20 myself, and the rules are just that the 15 most impressive setups (even just text descriptions of setups count) will win prize packs. There aren't even a hundred comments on there right now, and this seems like the right place for budget equipment (it doesn't get more budget than winning!) so I thought I would pop back in to share. Good luck if you choose to participate.

I bought a used Yamaha A2A and can return it for 30 days.

Do you have any advice to check that it's fine? What have you seen go wrong with these things?

I'm watching a DVD piped through it and it's working. It turns on. The knobs rotate. The remote remotes...?

So I did the jump and bought myself some good Sennheiser Accentum Plus headphones which are overall pretty good, the only issue I'm facing is that the headphones itself didn't come with buttons to skip/pause music and instead uses a touch panel, the problem is that when I try to skip a song or pause it with the touch panel it doesn't work at all, it works nice in my phone but on my Linux system it doesn't. I tried with different programs and it doesn't change anything.

Someone have some advice? I'm using ArcoLinux i3

I have never spent a lot of money on headphones, but for the first time I would like to try to spend a little more, and not only because of the brand, but also because of the features which are not entirely clear to me.

1. Are they (the Sennheiser Accentum Plus Wireless) compatible with PS5 consoles? As far as I understand, as a general rule the only wireless headphones (via bluetooth) that work with Sony consoles are Sony's own headphones, but I would like to know if I'm wrong.

2. How does the multipoint technology work? I would love to be able to listen to music playing from my phone and at the same time listen to the sounds of the game I'm playing on my Steam Deck, but I don't know if it works like that.

3. How good is the noise cancellation? I am interested in buying them to be able to study in a noisy environment and I don't expect it to cancel 100% of the noise but at least most of the noise.

They don't need to be brilliant, just decent enough.

Hello,

I own a Denon DCD-810 which plays mostly fine. I've cleaned the lens, changed the belt and cleaned / greased the rails and gears on this thing and it can play hours without a hitch.

Now I notice that certain CD's skip sometimes. Nothing is physically damaged with the CD's themselves (as far as I can see). The skipping is not always on the same moments but seem to concentrate more on the first few tracks. Although that might also be my perception because usually I just throw in a different CD when the skipping starts.

So having playing Purple Haze for the third time now in a row I started out with skipping and now it plays almost flawlessly. The player has already been playing for more that an hour before so no cold components as far as I know. I can find no relation between the skipping CD's in age. Old or new both can be jerky.

Does anyone know what could cause skipping on certain CD's while others play fine for hours on end? I accept my DCD-810 being a fossil as a valid answer ;)

I love Bluetooth bone conduction earphones and I'm ready to buy something pricier, sturdier, waterproof, and hopefully sound far superior to everything I've tried.

I've had a few budget sets, and I love the convenience, portability, and weight of all of them, but the audio is obviously dog s***.

Are there any bone conduction headphones that are not dog s*** audially that any of you can personally attest to?

Thanks

Hello, I'm not really too well versed in Audio, so im sorry if this question may seem a bit silly to you experts.

A few Months ago, I got my self some Vintage 4 Way Speaker Boxes from the late East germany. The person I bought it from, insisted that these need very specific Amplifiers so all 4 Speakers of the 4 Way System will be utilized.

The Amplifier he said worked best with that are Fera V150s, also Vintage east German stuff... issue here being that mine has issues working consistently, so I'll probably have to replace it at some point.

What seems odd to me is that the 4 way Speaker Boxes need specific Amplifiers to use all 4 Speakers? Is that true, or would any amplifier be able to drive all 4 Speakers just fine?

With the V3 mono coming out to the broader public soon (and not just the presale buyers), I took the time to give an “ears only” review for this community of my pair. Be warned: it is personal, subjective, and shies away from too much technical discussion. I may even use the wrong terms here and there. But for those interested in technical measurements, I recommend consulting detailed reviews that provide objective data. I go into this review with no expectations of improvements to my sound system, after all we’re just talking about power being sent to a speaker, right? I tested these amps over several days and with plenty of music and media content. Read on to learn how these amps stomped all over my expectations and may have changed my audio upgrade path for the better.

**Unboxing Experience: **

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The unboxing experience was fine, I was surprised by the substantial weight of the box, it reminded me of a high-quality phono preamp. The packaging was generic, likely pre-retail, and was missing product details. Inside, the amplifiers were well-protected in foam, and the pair of 48V/10A power supplies were individually packed, ensuring no damage during transit. A tiny manual with basic information was included, but no other cables were provided.

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**Build Quality and Design: **

Upon first impression, the Fosi V3 monoblocks are compact, smaller than expected, similar in size to an Art DJ III phono preamp. Note the toggles on the front.

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They are dense, not heavy but heavier than you would expect for their size. The separate power supply significantly reduces the desktop/rack footprint, allowing for a cleaner display of the neat little amplifiers, just tuck those power bricks away behind something.

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The color scheme fits well with other black equipment like Denon and Sony, with a touch of orange in the vents adding a unique flavor. The toggles on the front make for easy switching between inputs (RCA and XLR) and to turn the amps off quickly. On the rear, there is plenty of space for the inputs without having them bump into each other or crowd each other out, an issue I’ve run into on some smaller devices.

**Specifications and Features: **

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Channel : 1.0 Amplifier Chip : Texas Instruments TPA3255 Input : RCA, XLR, ¼" TRS Output : Speaker Output (supports banana plug or bare wire connection) SINAD : XLR: 101dB ; RCA: 93dB SNR : ≥123dB Dynamic Range : ≥123dB THD : ＜0.006% Gain : XLR/¼” TRS: 20dB ; RCA: 25dB, 31dB; Terminal Impedance : 2-8Ω Rated Power Output : 48V/5A--240W@4Ω ; 32V/5A --100W@4Ω Frequency Response : 10Hz-30kHz（±0.06dB） Input Voltage Range : DC 32-48V Standard PSU : 48V/5A

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Not shown in the provided specs the swappable OP-AMP (a part you can swap out to change how audio is processed) offers flexibility for future flavor changes. Also, there is a selectable gain on the back of 25 and 32db, preset to 32db, with most of my testing conducted at 25db. Optionally, there is a 48V/10A PSU available that can be split to power two amps at a time. The v3 Mono features auto-standby mode, which kicks in after 10 minutes to save you a bit of power. Source: https://fosiaudio.com/pages/monoblock-power-amplifier-v3-mono   **Setup and Installation: **

Setup was straightforward. The amps connected via RCA to my DAC, and the speakers plugged in using banana cables. The provided power supply cables are quite long which made for easy placement. I used two audio chains for my testing: The digital chain for testing: Qobuz/Plex -> Nvidia Shield TV Pro -> Topping D30 -> Fosi V3 Mono -> Mordaunt Short MS300. The analog chain for testing is the: Denon 400 turntable -> Art DJ III Phono Pre -> Fosi V3 Mono -> MS300. Comparisons are made against a Denon AVR S570BT (Retail $399 USD), which is my daily AMP.

Performance:

I ran the Bunker Analog Stereo test suite to start, as I do with all my new equipment and this evaluation was surprising as I did not expect much change. Five-point separation tests showed a wide soundstage and a dynamic range of -72 db, which was an improvement of -12db vs my AVR. Signal sweeps confirmed clear frequency separation, but especially in the low frequency range 40-80hz, making the bass more differentiated and eliminating muddiness I had come to expect from my stack, turns out the mud wasn’t my MS300 speakers, it was my amps! In the high frequency range, I confirmed that my hearing stops at around 16kHz, but my young daughter assures me that higher frequencies are being produced even if my old ears can’t hear them. At and below 16kHz, everything sounded like it should. This clear separation of frequencies and lack of audible distortion in test tones is a good omen and turns out to be a preview of good things to come.

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*Can you spot the Fosi Amps? Their footprint is tiny. *

For my first tracks I listened to Babymetal, I love this band and they’re a recent obsession of mine combining Jpop and metal in a way that you didn’t know you needed in your life. I had a session with their live album, “Babymetal Returns: The Other One” as I have been listening to this album a lot lately and know it well. Expecting nothing new, I was surprised immediately at the difference revealed in the live track "Doki Doki Morning," as I could no longer hear the distortion in the higher frequencies and sustained vocals. This is an issue I was hearing across all my audio equipment, to the point I wrongly believed it was a problem with the recording. Turns out, again it was my AVR! It’s like my session went from listening to a live recording to having a live experience, the sound profile changed that much here, the presentation just felt much more ‘live’ than it had previously. This is exciting!

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On the analog chain, the Lemon Twigs' newest LP "A Dream is All We Know" showcased the amps' ability to provide vocal detail and instrument separation. Tracks like "If You and I Are Not Wise" and "How Can I Love Her More?" sounded great with clear stereo separation, a wide soundstage, and differentiated low frequencies bringing the base playing to life.

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I also had the chance to test some TV content on the Nvidia Shield Pro, mostly while watching shows with my kids. Sailor Moon Crystal in flac stereo sounds great, with a wide soundstage differentiating the location of voices and clear voice reproduction. I swear, this stereo setup powered by the Fosi V3 Mono might be better for TV vocals and separation than the 5.1 system I disconnected.

Disadvantages

Let’s talk about disadvantages, or annoyances I found along the way. In my analogue stack there was nothing but the PreAmp Gain and the selectable gain on the Fosi V3 Mono to control volume levels. In an integrated amp or AVR you get more volume control. For those wanting more fine-tuned volume control in your analogue stack you will need a different preamp, maybe some other kind of controller like a Schiit Sys Passive Preamp. Note for digital users: I didn’t have this issue on the digital stack as the Nvidia Shield provided all the volume control I needed, I don't know if a preamp would matter there.

Also worth mentioning, but not exactly the AMPs fault, the Auto Standby mode doesn’t kick in when connected to my analogue stack. The reason is obvious, my Art DJ III Phono Preamp has no power off switch and is always delivering at least a bit of signal as long as it is plugged in, this is all it takes for the v3 Mono to remain ‘on’ and a little bit warm. This is worth being aware of if your use case involves a component like the Art DJ III, you can either turn the v3 Mono off directly via the front toggle, or rig something up to disable your preamp to solve this problem. Another minor annoyance is that these AMPs are identical in rear configuration, good for modularity, but a little inconvenient for intuitive wiring. An optional left / right model (when purchased in a set) might make cable management for these a little more intuitive with right outputs to the right and left to left. Although I haven’t found a competing product that does this kind of thing. This is a minor concern, however, as once the amps are setup frequent rewiring is unlikely.

Lastly, the units I have do make a bit of an audible tick or pop when the unit comes on. This isn’t a big deal to me and my Denon AVR does it too, it lets me know they’re on, but it did startle me the first time it happened.   Alternate Speaker test:

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I was so impressed by the life breathed into my Mordaunt Short MS300 speakers by these Fosi Audio V3 mono amplifiers that I decided to unretire my Sony SSCS3 towers to see if these amps could redeem them. Sadly, there is no saving the SSCS3 speakers and they’re just as frustrating as ever. They produced noticeably more bass than previously, but it was all mud. One thing these amps have done for me is to let me hear the difference between good speakers like the MS300 and let’s say a less good speakers like the SSCS3. These AMPs won’t save poor speakers, but they will help your good speakers perform at their best!

Comparison with my AVR setup:

! Just a bit of dust on the Denon. But look at that size difference.

Like many people, my introduction to home theater and stereo is just getting an AVR based on the spec sheet, and looking for a bundle to match my TV with speakers that are well reviewed at a value. So, I come to this comparison from that background, my Denon AVR S570BT drives my home theater speakers, and I always thought it did a good job. Compared to my AVR and those like it, the Fosi V3 monoblocks excel in sound quality and detail. I don’t have the measurements to quantify this, but my ears aren’t lying and after 2 days of A/B tests, swapping speakers out, disabling EQ /using Pure Direct mode, I know I can hear a difference. From Babymetal to The Lemon Twigs, David Bowie to Neil Young, GA20 to Brittney Spencer, Sleigh Bells to Low Roar, every track and genre I threw at it sounded better on the Fosi V3 Mono amps than from my AVR. From a technology standpoint, it feels great to assemble a small footprint, quality stereo system from these Monoblock amps, an old Nvidia shield, an old DAC, and vintage speakers I got from a private sale ad for a song. When it comes to the modular design there are significant advantages versus all-in-one systems. The modular design allows for replacements, upgrades, and customization of your stack whether you are building for style, substance or both. These amps can fit into various configurations, from a simple stereo system to a high-end setup, providing versatility and quality at an excellent value. I can’t find anything comparable in value at the expected asking price.

Just consider the flexibility and upgrade paths on offer here, like a low-cost stereo system: Wiim Mini > DAC > Monoblock > Stereo Speakers

Or a value-oriented home theater chain: Denon X3800H > Monoblocks > 2/5/7/9 channels

Or even provide the power needed to your higher-end configuration like: Anthem STR Preamplifier> > Monoblocks (XLR) > Stereo Speakers

Yes, yes, I know I didn’t do measurements. I don’t have measurement equipment other than my ears! If measurements are your thing you’ll want to check out the review over at Audio Science Review that has all the measurements you could ever want.

**Final Thoughts: **

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My overall experience with the Fosi V3 monoblocks was surprising, because I didn’t expect it to make any difference. Let’s sum it up though, easy setup, flexible configuration options, powerful performance, what’s not to like? After hours of listening, I can say with no doubt that these amplifiers outperformed my expectations and proved to be a significant upgrade over my home AVR. I’m convinced to pursue a separates system for future upgrades and recommend these to friends and family looking for high quality amplification at a fair price. At their expected asking price of below $260USD a pair, these monoblocks offer incredible value, with performance well above price comparable units. I highly recommend the Fosi V3 monoblocks for anyone interested in exploring separates, powering vintage speakers, adding passive speakers to your computer, or adding quality stereo amplification to any room with a minimal footprint and maximum flexibility. These amplifiers deliver exceptional performance and versatility, making them a worthwhile investment.

Earlier this year I bought a new Denon AVR-X1700H. I was happy with it, but after a month I noticed it produced a humm when I turn it on. It's only noticeable when the room is near silent, but it's really annoying when you notice it.

After investigation, it's coming from inside the device, I guess from a coil or transformer. I disconnected all sources and all speakers and it's only coming from inside the enclosure. It's silent when on standby mode (red led) and can be heard as soon as I turn it on (green led).

Spectrogram of the noise:

https://imgur.com/a/oaBrRhK first click is the first relay when the device is turned on, the 200Hz humm is here. Then comes the second relay. Then I turn the device off, both relays are clicking again and then the 200Hz humm is gone.

sound file:

http://sndup.net/ns947

I contacted my local dealer after sale service describing them in details the problem. they were not responsive. after a second email they accepted I send it back for service. (after telling me there would be fee is my claim is bogus). I quickly received the device back without any explanations about what was done. Only a List of replacement part serial numbers, they apparently replaced the main transformer.

Unfortunately, once plugged in, the problem was still the same. I contacted the service again, and I was told the noise they detected was "within the normal range" and "that this hum comes from the customer's network (ripple control pulse)."

None of my other sound devices are making this kind of noise at home. I tried to connect the AVR to another socket in another room, same result. I even tried to disconnect all the electrical devices in my flat (even the fridge, the dishwasher, the cooker and the internet box) and I still have the same result.

Could someone tell me, by the files I uploaded above, If I'm extremely sensitive or if there's indeed something wrong with my device ?

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/16623544

> Hey all, I've narrowed it down to 3 options: > AKG K371 (at €149) > AKG K361 (at €104) > AKG K182 (at €69) > > Use case is just at my desk. I have CX Wireless for on the road and wireless listening. > > I like a full low end and defined, crisp highs. I mostly listen to soft easy listening like Mazzy Star or rougher rock bands like Evanescence, Bad Omens etc. I also listen to melodic electronic music. > > I've read a lot of reviews and I can't really decide on the soundstage. For this I've chosen AKG because I have the K512 mk2's now and I've been very pleased with them. > > As for comfort, I need them not to clamp after an hour or two. I don't mind having to pause every now and then. > > Any other recommendations welcome. > > But bottom line, I think 69 for the K182 is a great deal even though the K3x1s might be better cans.

This is more of a general audio question, but still relevant I feel. I have had my HD 600 for about 5 years now and noticed channel imbalance sneaking in slowly. Now it is noticable, but not too bad just yet. I was hoping for more expensive headphones to not have these issues, but apparently I was wrong. Is this just something one has to get over, or is there some secret sauce to prevent this from happening?

I have now gone through some classic budget IEM recommendations as well and they have all had severe cases of channel imbalance in a very short timespan: Salnotes ZERO (about 3 months) Moondrop Chu (about 0.8 months) KZ ZSN Pro X (this one took 6 years to get channel imablance actually)

Will I just have to get new headphones now? I'm eyeing those Beyerdynamics everyone talks about (DT 770 pro).

EDIT: Also, I have found that it tends to be mostly the harsh frequencies which shift over to one side, so when adjusting the balance in some settings, it shifts all the other frequencies out of balance while fixing the 4000 - 8000 into the right position. Just something I observed.

Hello guys.

What do you think of Sony WH-CH720N headphones? I can get them for $82. Is there anything better for this price?

Things I want to have:

1. Good ANC
2. Bluetooth and wired connection
3. Comfort of wearing them for, let's say 2 hours

Thanks in advance.

$25 on Facebook, stands included, perfect working condition.

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Replaced my nearly new Sony SS CS3 towers with them yesterday. I'm very impressed with the detail, seperation and soundstage on these 3-way speakers.

The full setup is a Nvidia Shield TV Pro acting as streamer to a Denon 570BT receiver/amp. 5.2 surround with two Sony SA-CS9 Subwoofers, rear Sony SS-CS5, and center SS CS8. I had gotten the entire Sony speaker set (plus atmos elevation speakers) and the Denon on sale for $1136 CAD last October, which felt pretty good. But scoring these classics really made my day.

I want to buy the Beyer Dynamic DT-880 but don't know which 1 to buy. Most of the time I will use it on my Yamaha A-S201 amplifier and occasionally on my smartphone or computer. Checked the Yamaha user manual but can't find anything about impedance of the phone connection. Any advice about impedance or better headphone for approx the same price is welcome.

My wife and I are moving from a condo to a house in a month and I'd like to set up a "proper" audio system on the property such that my wife can listen to one thing in her office, I can listen to something else in the garage, and my kids can listen to something in their rooms. The Sonos system is what I think I aspire to, but I haven't looked into things for a dozen+ years so don't really know what all is out there.

I currently have a bunch of Google pucks across the house, but would like better-quality audio than those provide.

Any alternatives to Sonos that have feature parity (or near-parity)?

Dear budget audio loving friends.. I just want to share my joy with someone now.

I had some janky/cheap mixed with basic/ok audio gear over the last two decades. Just one of my setups was an actual real deal, premium, upper-mid-tier audiophile level treasure. I had it for a few months, it was a lot of fun, yes, it was overly expensive, double yes. The pure power, clarity and (obviously) bass were on impossibly precise and reality-bending levels for late 20s me.. and most of my neighbors. There is a high probability that I have unintentionally killed some innocent flora and fauna with it. After maaany complaints about “dancing beds and glassware” etc. I just had to give it up — back then it felt like loosing something important.

So, let’s fast forward around a few years to yesterday. I think I might have created something special — at least for me — for about $50.

30 years old JVC receiver, I’ve bought some time ago as a project starter, paired with two german, vintage (50+ years old) 3-way speakers that I’ve found by a total accident on a local flea market and was pretty sure during the entire road back home that they might be dead or at least not fully functional.. how wrong was I!

I just can’t stop smiling now. Didn’t have so much fun while simply listening to anything in a really long time. I can taste the rainbow of the pleasant, warm and cozy sound.

For the first time, I feel like I have a perfect setup for me and my surroundings, yet it is the cheapest one I ever had. This is crazy, this should not have happened, but it did.

Thanks for reading, I guess?

Here in the Colonies/North America/USA there is the Craigslist for locals, the Reverb/eBay (but the shipping of gear for Reverb & eBay is painful), the local ham radio swap meets/ham fests (shout out to https://www.electronicsfleamarket.com/ (AKA eFlea or EFM friends), but I have not had much success. Yes, I have been able to pass some nice speakers off to new homes but there is other gear that needs to move on.

Thoughts/recommendations appreciated - TIA!

A friend who plays pubg mobile as a professional gamer asked me to find him earphones for gaming, but without Bass yes, you read it right without bass I can’t seem to find anything that fits his requirements.

I got it used. My trusty old Ear 9 is now relieved. Harmony Design is a swedish brand, their HPAs are really something else!

Hello, im someone who has no real clue about Audio, but what I do know is that my TV speaker are just kinda meh.

So for both esthetic and sound purposes I thought about maybe getting 2 tower speakers like these. Its important to know that these would mostly only play Youtube videos and the occasional Series or Movie.

So one of my main questions is if something like these is either Overkill or not suited for something like youtube Videos?

I am looking at an auction that'll end in 5 hours for around 100€. What do the experts on here think?

Hi there.

I'm using this unit here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09YNBHR73

The issue I am having is subwoofers and not having a lot of money to fix my situation.

I currently have that 3 x 8" ported Skar box, but it has such low impedance that the speaker safety trips constantly on it. Godzilla help me if someone says a word with a p in it.

Is there a way for me to rewire that setup to gain more impedance and stop it from cutting off or should I move on and get a single 12" for the small box I have? (I have a behind the seat single 12" enclosure.)

I'd obviously love to have bass as deep as possible, but any options would be nice.

Thanks

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.blahaj.zone/post/10209203

> i almost fell victim to this but thank god i got out

I have two of these passive speakers that I would like to connect to my TV. It really doesn't need to get super loud since I will be using it to watch tv/movies at a normal volume. My tv does have yellow/white rca audio out ports (not just audio in) as well as sigital out.

Can someone please recommend an amp and wires to attach these two with a priority on reliability and energy efficiency? I'm a noob at anything audio.

!

Update: I found a used amp for cheap and they both sound great!

I have this old pair of Technics SB-3130, they are three way speakers. Both of the super tweeters are dead (infinite resistance) and I’m not sure if this impact the range of frequency feeded to the tweeter. Given the schematic diagram, if I remove the super tweeter, should I modify something to have all the high frequencied on the tweeter?

Been collecting records for years but never owned a turntable (lol)

Wondering if it's a better bet to buy a brand new turntable, or a vintage turntable? I like the idea of buying a vintage made in Japan turntable but not sure if there is actually a difference in terms of technology.

Also, I am interested in ripping some records I have, can any turntable do this? I have a focusrite audio interface already.

Recommendations appreciated. My headphones are AKG K7XX but likely I would be using the turntable with my inexpensive powered Edifer bookshelf speakers.

I have been considering buying an IEM that would be a step up from my older BLON BL03 and QKZ x HBB.

So far I have narrowed down to these 3 -

1. Truthear x Crinacle Zero (red)
2. Simgot EW200
3. 7hz Sonus

I found one more IEM - KZ PR-2 or PR-3

I mostly listen to Rock, metal, jazz, blues and some occasional cinematic soundtracks (like Hans Zimmer). I also want to use the IEM to play games like Apex Legends.

I want it to last for sometime (if possible) unlike my blon - the shells come off every now and then and its annoying.

If there are any other IEMs I should consider please let me know. I just want the best value for money IEM that sounds good

Finally I have a new amplifier, but it has no sub woofer connection. I have 2 3-way boxes connected. I have also a set of Kef KHT 2005.2 satelite speakers. Lowest freq they have is 80 hz. Is it possible to connect them to the amplifier? Or can I damage this speakers or the amplifier? Amp Yamaha A-S201 3-way speakers Dual CL 730 Thx for any advice

This happened to the tweeter of one of my Theil speakers. I don't have an audio technician nearby, so I was hoping to do this repair myself.

Who makes a good RCA cable that I can use to connect my subwoofer? I wanna go one output from the receiver to two inputs on the woofer. I'd like to not break the bank or overpay for ridiculous brand names if possible. I just can't tell on Amazon anymore what kind of quality I'm getting from China basically.

I know they are passive, but what are some good brands or receivers that I could use with an Audio Technica LP120 turntable?

Also, does the type of speaker wire I use matter too?

Total newbie asking some basic questions. Let's say I have 3 devices that I want to connect to and simultaneously transmit audio to a single bluetooth headset...

Could I use a 3.5mm audio mixer with those three devices as inputs and a 3.5mm to bluetooth adapter to then send the sound to my bluetooth headset?

Now, let's say I'd like to also switch between the 3 devices with my bluetooth headset to use both headphones/mic. Would I be able to use a 3.5mm splitter, split the sound from the devices to both the audio mixer and an audio switch with the output of the audio mixer plugged into the 4th slot of the audio switch and the 3.5mm to bluetooth adapter plugged into the output of the audio switch and either choose the mixer as input or each of the 3 devices individually?

If that works, I think I heard that splitters make volume lower than normal from output devices? Would I then put an amplifier between the 3.5mm bluetooth adapter and the audio switch?

This is all seeming like it would work in my head but I have literally never worked with any audio equipment before so, figured I'd ask.

Also, is this totally overkill and is there a way easier way to solve my issues?

I want to know if there is a way to essentially hook up two AUX ports from 2 phones and merge them into one. Allowing me to listen to the audio output from both devices at the same time and use any set of AUX headphones to listen to these 2 phones.

I am looking for speakers, decent quality and nice looking that doesn't stand out too much. I want it on a bookshelf in the kitchen and another in the sitting room.

I want it to connect to a home server but also Spotify/streaming. And I'd like them to link together.

Basically I want the house listening experience to be seamless when going between different rooms, 2-4 speakers. Audiobooks and some music would be stored on a Nas and most music and podcasts would be Spotify.

I'd prefer to interact with it through my phone, Android if possible but not completely necessary.

In my head I imagine walking into a new room and tapping the speaker with my phone to switch to that speaker.

Is this a real thing?

Took around three or four hours. With a thicker thread it would be a lot faster. It's just for looks but it may theoretically strengthen it a bit, since the plastic is pretty thin. The earpads are the Brainwavz 100mm Round Sheepskin. Wouldn't buy them on my own since I don't necessarily think they're worth their price (since they're only marginally more comfortable than the stock earpads) but I got them as a gift from family. I also used to have some rubber kitty ears on top, but I got worried that the constant pressure would eventually damage those flimsy plastic tubes so I took them off.

Hello everyone,

unfortunately I have to replace my audio-technica ATH-CKX9 InEars with a new pair.

I was hoping you could help me find new ones:

• Wired InEar
• 3.5mm jack
• Use at home (Music/Gaming: 50/50)
• Homogeneous sound (if possible)
• Up to 120€/$

Thanks in advance, help is much appreciated!

I am way out of my depths even looking for one. If anyone has any pointers, it would be a huge help!

For info: I use 2 Edifier R1280s and normally on relatively low volume, so it doesn't need to be anything crazy, but I will slowly build my sound system over the next 4-5 years and would like to not need replace a new record player (which will be a central piece) in the coming years. Willing to spend €350 depending on quality.

Many thanks BAs!