If you're saying "the B word," then no, I can't.
The lemmy.ml server even rejected a post I attempted that addressed this:
I can't upload another photo, because Connect says that the image service is "down," but it rejects with "error: slurs"
Anyway, this is my last post here. It's been fun, lemmy.ml.
Just discovered this also. I'm out. What a disappointment.
Why are there "removed" words in your comment?
Don't forget the new Matrix movie. That will make you sad, and you'll have something to heal from, too!
This message is displayed in the browser because Google asked your browser to do it, and your browser got the message and put it there.
When displaying ads, the end user experience is 100% client-side. You are using your screen and speakers to observe it. You can turn off your speakers and screen if you want, which will effectively "block" the ad.
But that is silly. Not only do you own your screen and speakers, but you have control of what you're browser is doing, too (if you use a respectable browser). When HTML, CSS, JavaScript, and other content is downloaded, just that happened: file downloads. After it has been downloaded, your browser then consumes it.
When it is consumed, a lot happens, but ultimately, the code in the browser displays content. Your (respectable) browser does all of this, and will change the look depending on local fonts, accessibility options, etc. With an ad block add-on, it will also remove these ads.
However, when ads are removed, the DOM is mutated with deleted or replaced content. It is possible for a website to then write ad block detection scripts to see if the ad contents have been removed or not. There are many ways to do this, and this screenshot is the result of one way of doing it.
However, enter the cat-and-mouse-chase of ad block block blocks. You can block your ads, then block the ad block block like this screenshot. These types of ad block rules are less common, but many public ones are available. Check the uBlock Origin lists in the setting page. By default, only about a third of the lists are enabled, and these extra blocks are in there.
Another avenue of determining that ads were not loaded is for the server to inspect if client-side (you) requests were made to fetch the ads. Even if this is in place, the server cannot determine if you have actually watched the ad or not. It could try to do more client-side attempts at validating that you somehow displayed it, but again, that's client-side.
Imagine if you were sent a letter and a pamphlet in the mail. Imagine if the letter said that you could mail them back for a free sample of their product, but only if you read the pamphlet. They would have to trust that you read it, because you are reading your mail in the privacy of your own home. However, you could opt to toss the pamphlet (like an ad blocker) and never read it. It's your mail, your home, and your choice.
If the package manager leaves you with broken dependencies, a broken system, or a system that "doesn't work," then there are significant bugs in how the distro has packaged things. It happens, but seldomly.
Package managers aren't "hard." There are GUIs where you can search and install packages, even. In my opinion, if you have a Linux user that has avoided learning how package managers work, then they're skipping a core foundation of how to use their operating system.
You're recommending Flatpak for users that are confused by packages?
It looks like sonarr is not in the official Ubuntu mirrors. The website mentions adding a new repo to apt. Is this what you did, or something else?
Also, how are you starting it? I'm looking at the Arch package in the AUR (not your distro, but just looking), and I notice that it includes a .service file. This means that it would be started as a service, and not as a user, like you're probably attempting to do.
What directory is it trying to write to? Can you show us the full error, preferably as text and not a screenshot?
If there is a dependency problem in the upstream packages, then there is a bug in Ubuntu. This doesn't happen often, and isn't a good reason to go to Flatpak by itself. A bug should be filed upstream and it'll likely get fixed quickly.
This is meta as hell. I love it.
If this is expected and everything is peachy, then why does Instacart say to not give the receipt to the customer? You don't see this as something to hide?
Some printers detect when cartridges have been refilled by the user and are programmed to stop working then.
This is absurd. I would like to hear how this benefits the consumer without attempting to talk about "quality" or something. This would be like my car not starting cause I didn't use Shell gas.
What's more upsetting is that printers are client side all the way. There is nothing about them that needs to reach out to the Internet to print pages. The printer itself handles the "letting you print." So the thing sitting on your desk, that you own, is choosing this for you.
I agree. That would be absurd.
However, I don't like not having the option of using HTTP if I want to use it. It's okay if the webserver redirects me, but I don't like if my browser does it when I didn't tell it to. I might want this when doing development, port tunneling, VPN stuff, etc. In most cases, it won't matter, but when it does, it will be a pain in the ass.
Why there's a whole Wikipedia article for that https://wikipedia.org/wiki/Donald_Trump_sexual_misconduct_allegations
I disagree. While in practice, this is often the same website, it is a different protocol and a different port. It just happens to use the same DNS address. You're explicitly giving your browser a FQDN, and it is ignoring it and doing something else.
I hope this feature can be disabled. Google has been ignoring the W3C and has shipped proprietary, insecure features in their chromium engine for a while now, so it wouldn't surprise me if they made it permanent 🤷
I am looking to ditch some PoE Ubiquiti hardware in favor of a DIY approach with 802.11ax cards. What card would you recommend for long-range 802.11ax? Are there gotchas when hosting with hostapd with some cards, like binary blob drivers, incomplete support, etc. that I should know about? Is there any reason I should avoid doing this? I will likely add omnidirectional antennas to this setup; what would you recommend there?
For what it's worth, Ubiquiti stuff is expensive, and lately, they have embedded ads into their Unifi controller software that you host yourself. I really don't like this move. I like the hands-off "appliance" approach to the APs, but they are still finicky, and I would feel a lot more at ease editing a configuration file than hosting a hefty piece of software that only runs on an obsolete version of Java.
It's too easy to swipe "right" by swiping too diagonally on a post and close it. When it's closed, there isn't a way to go back to the place in the post you were reading.
![](https://lemmy.ml/pictrs/image/d0c02db6-e044-43c9-8aff-ddb314045337.jpeg?thumbnail=1024&format=webp)
One of my joysticks started to do this muted "click" when moving it up and down. It's really subtle, like you can very gently touch the end of the range by tapping the joystick shaft on the Deck's chassis, then you can push it a little more and it'll do a little "bump."
I took the back of my Deck off, unplugged the joystick, removed the three screws, and pulled it out. Then, I pulled the cap off and saw that the cap is just a friction fit on the shaft, and the cap is simply loose and wobbling.
To fix it, I cut a 1 cm x 1 cm square of plastic from a ziplock bag and put it on top of the shaft. Then, I squeezed it with my fingers to kinda form it to the shaft so it'd stay put. Finally, I pressed the cap back on.
That's it! The little piece of ziplock bag helps the cap grip the shaft and stay put. You can attach it back to the chassis with the three screws and reconnect the ribbon cable to test it with the back off just in case anything is wrong, then put the case back on when you're confident.
Also, the ribbon cable comes with a couple pinched folds, and is taped to a daughterboard PCB. It's easy to damage. Here's a part that's a near-exact replacement that works great, in case you break yours:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0150200097/2817187