Condensation shouldn't be an issue as long as you're not cooling below the current dew point.
However, after experiencing one of these underfloor cooling systems once, I can say that the biggest issue is that cold air tends to be heavier and thus stay down. So in order to cool the entire room, not just the layer of air right above the floor, you need something to move the air, which is probably why they're providing fans. Either that or you can just lie on the floor all the time...
Floor heating works because warm air rises. I never understood why 'floor' cooling wasn't piped through the ceiling, instead. There are probably some engineering or heat transfer issues there, though.
Nah. I'm sure they'll go straight for the 8-day work week. Gotta think outside the box here taps head
picked up No Man's Sky the other week at 50% off and really enjoying it
mmm, this seems painfully accurate
still, I wonder how many spouses of homebrewers actually participate in the activity but are not identified within the survey
heh, I can also hear myself blink sometimes in a quiet room. my thyroid tests are inconclusive though.
have you considered getting your thyroid checked? anecdotal evidence, a former colleague mentioned they had thyroid issues (on the hyper side) and could hear their pulse in their head before solving it. somehow that bit of info stuck with me
Ah, yes. My mistake, did not read the entire wikipedia article there for sardonic grin.
Huh. I was thinking Aconitum species when they mentioned carrots.
Sardonic grin just mentions strychnine poisoning, which comes from a tree.
I think they may be using mastodon and that's how you post in a lemmy community via mastodon, using the @ tags.
The software calculated efficiency for the Braumeister is spot on for me if just using it like set it and forget it, so about 65%. I can up that with stopping the pump during mashing, opening the thing and stirring the mash about once every 30 minutes in my 90 min mash. Also by milling the malt a bit finer. But too fine, and I get a stuck mash. With this, I managed around 75, or how much the software sets as standard for pot and cooler method, so I'm happy with that.
I also start the brew with 23ish liters of strike water, dump 6 kg of malt in there and sparge with 5-6 liters at 80C. Boil 1 hr and end up with 18-19 liters in the fermenter with the rest full of trub in the Braumeister (2-3 liters maybe?) I never measured how much is left and I can sparge with 4 or 6L. I just eyeball it according to how much wort is in when I lift the malt pipe.
In your case, I'd say maybe the mash did not go very well.
I wouldn't be too worried about the body. It could be that your fermentation just stopped a bit higher because all that's left is longer sugars, unfermentable, but good for the body. One way to find out...
What is your brewing setup? I've used your grain quantities in BeerSmith with a Braumeister 20L setup for the out of the box efficiency (without stirring the malt during mashing or a finer grind or extra boiling) and it gave me a post-boil of 1.042, which seems to fit with your result so I'd guess you had an efficiency issue. How did the mashing go?
I've noticed that when boiling for the standard 1 hour, I get about a 10% increase in gravity (for the digits after the 1 - that is, pre-boil of 1.064 leads to post-boil of 1.070 ish), so in your case 1.037 to 1.041 would check out for me.
For my brewing setup, 30 minutes at 63C doesn't really cut it, I've tried it and noticed 60 minutes or even 90 minutes work way better. But then I mostly use kveik and the indication seems to be for longer mash times (something about it being unable to digest sugars made of 3+ units).
I'm not sure I get your last point. If your FG is higher than expected, you should reasonably have more sugars left over from fermentation, so more residual sweetness.
Regardless, I'd suggest RDWHAHB, and see what you get out of this. Do share your final results, I am curious what it's like.
Out of lazyness, I just let all my beers sit in the fermenter for 2 weeks and that seems to work out just fine. Some finish bubbling after 2 days, some after 12.
Edited to add: just noticed from your yeast link, you also use an all-in-one system, does it suffer from the same low efficiency issues as the Braumeister, I wonder?
Surprised it's not Nessie
I've no idea on the relockable bootloader support with self signed keys. Though I do remember reading at some point from some lad ranting about why it's a bad idea to relock, and seemed to make sense, so I didn't look further into the matter. The post was on the... ehm... other website.
Aye, they have unlockable bootloaders and sony also provides instructions and firmware needed to build your own AOSP if that's your pleasure. I just went the lineageOS way.
That's a damn shame. I really liked their phones, their only downside, I think, was the crap support - they only give 2 years of updates. But with lineage that is no longer an issue.
In the southeast of Ireland I've heard it 'bodder', almost like the Danish soft d instead of the th, but it was just a couple of guys so maybe the sample size is a bit off.
Have you looked at what sony has to offer? They latest xperia had a headphone jack, sd card and I believe lineageOS support.
i installed lineageOS on an xperia 5 ii, so older model, and seems to be going strong. got latest update 1 week ago.
Ha. Today I learned. I read it in a Scottish tone, seemed to fit
I'm also a fan of the Scottish way.
A close second is the 'no bodder' from Ireland.
I use a Braumeister, and grind size is a bit of an issue. Too coarse - bad efficiency. Too fine - dough. My recommendation would be to check what Brezilla recommends. Braumeister has a recommended size on their website. And use that as a starting point. Go a bit finer if efficiency is still bad. Try the size on the Braumeister website if Brewzilla does not have any. I grind at my local homebrew shop and their mill says '7' ish.
Also, even if AIO, during the mash I usually stop 2-3 times and open up the malt pipe and give it a good stir. Improves efficiency for my setup.
Also, true, for smaller grains like rye or specialty black grains, do grind them separately, and way finer to make sure they don't slip by.
Hey, so first off, this is my first time dabbling with LLMs and most of the information I found myself by rummaging through githubs.
I have a fairly modest set-up, an older gaming laptop with a RTX3060 video card with 6 GB VRAM. I run inside WSL2.
I have had some success running fastchat with the vicuna 7B model, but it's extremely slow, at roughly 1 word every 2-3 seconds output, with --load-8bit, lest I get a CUDA OOM error. Starts faster at 1-2 words per second but slows to a crawl later on (I suspect it's because it also uses a bit of the 'Shared video RAM' according to the task manager). So I heard about quantization which is supposed to compress models at the cost of some accuracy. Tried ready-quantized models (compatible with the fastchat implementation) from hugginface.co, but I ran into an issue - whenever I'd ask something, the output would be repeated quite a lot. Say I'd say 'hello' and I'd get 200 'Hello!' in response. Tried quantizing a model myself with exllamav2 (using some .parquet wikitext files also from hugginface for calibration) and then using fastchat but the problem persists. Endless repeated output. It does work faster, though at the actual generation, so at least that part is going well.
Any ideas on what I'm doing wrong?
Hey, folks.
So, we're up to 1.6k subscribers now (yay!). Thank you to everyone for making this possible!
So, it's probably time to add a couple more moderators.
We seem to be a pretty chill bunch so far, so do reach out if this is something that you're interested in.
![](https://sopuli.xyz/pictrs/image/7faeca6e-8af1-4962-af5f-e878d786d623.webp?thumbnail=1024&format=webp)
A 7.5% ABV malt-forward beer, fermented with a kveik blend. Notes of bread crust, sugar plum, pear, nutmeg shine through on a malty base.
Malt: > Maris Otter 1 kg
> Light Munich 4 kg
> Chocolate Rye 0.2 kg
> Cara Rye 0.3 kg
> Crystal 150 0.3 kg
> Oak smoked wheat 0.2 kg
> extra: Table sugar 0.4 kg
Mash: > in @ 42 C
> 60' @ 63 C
> 20' @ 72 C
> out @ 78 C
Hops: > Northern Brewer 30g @ 60'
> Saaz 15g @ 10'
> H. Mittelfrüh 15g @ 10'
Yeast: Eitrheim Kveik
OG: 1.075 FG: 1.019
Boil volume - 23L. Bottled & kegged - 17.5L ( 1L trub loss). Kegged and bottled half and half. Bottled beer is rounder somehow (probably residual yeast activity?).
Edit: Light Munich, not dark. Notes just said 'Munich' - d'oh.
A while ago I managed to find a webshop selling koji spores and figured 'hell, why not?'.
I've seeded some rice successfully and made 2 batches of miso - one with chickpeas and another with plain old beans. Loved the results.
Then I was inspired by the veggie charcuterie I've seen Sandor Katz's book (I think it was there?) and thought I could maybe use it to make fake dry-sausages out of slabs of cooked seitan seeded with the koji spores. Success was limited since I did not get a full cover on the bits before the thing started sporulating, so I placed it in a dehydrator. Nevertheless, it was a fairly tasty addition to stir-fries, albeit a bit tough.
Anybody ever done funky things with koji? Looking for some weird new ideas to try out.
Greetings! Here's my attempt at creating an introduction to beer brewing. Please feel free to point out errors, inaccuracies, missing info, or anything you feel should be different.
Disclaimer: written under the influence of homebrew
Ingredients
- Yeast
In its most basic form, alcoholic fermentation is just yeasts chomping away at sugars to generate alcohol and carbon dioxide, giving our favourite beverage the buzz and fizz we enjoy. Depending on yeast strain and conditions (temperature, OG - that is initial or original gravity of the wort, nutrient availability), it may be more or less potent (in terms of alcohol tolerance) or yield more or less flavour compounds. Yeast suppliers usually give datasheets with temperature ranges and alcohol tolerances for yeasts.
- Malt
Malt is just grain that has been coerced into sprouting then dried. This unlocks enzymes within the grain that cut up complex sugars (starch) stored inside the grain into simpler sugars that the seedling would use as its initial energy stores. The drying conditions of the malt are what give us the large selection we have today. Do note, however, that the darker the malt, the less enzymatic activity it has.
- Hops
The main preservative in beer - hops inhibit lactobacilli that turn beer sour and give it the aroma we all know and love. Hops are defined by their alpha-acid content, which turn into beta-acids (that give beer its hop bitter taste) during boiling. The time of addition for hops is key for this, as longer boiling yields more beta-acids but loses flavour from the hops - hence, bittering hops are boiled for longer, aroma hops are boiled for less or not at all - added at whirlpool or used to dry-hop. Hops are also sensitive to oxidation, so they're stored in the freezer and sold in vacuum-sealed bags. There is a plethora of hops available from any self-respecting homebrew store and hop pellets (ground up and compressed hop flowers) are by far the most common form.
- Water
Without going into much detail, brewing water should not be overlooked. The ionic content of water does influence your beer quite a lot (for instance due to pH or presence / absence of magnesium ions that may bring out hop bitterness). Historically, brewing water has been tied to specific styles (like dry irish stout in Dublin, IPAs in Burton-on-trent or pilsners in Pilsen). Water used for brewing must, however, be chlorine-free, in order to avoid unpleasant flavours. This can be accomplished by using 1-2 campden tablets to 20L (~5 gal) water or filtering your water throught activated charcoal before use.
Process
- Sanitizing
The most important step in brewing - sanitizing stuff. Everything that does not get heated to at least pasteurization temperatures (~71 C or 161 F) needs to be sanitized. Everything that touches the wort after it's cooled or fermented beer needs to be sanitized. This cannot be stressed enough. Using StarSan diluted to its specification for about 30 seconds usually does the job. If something was sanitized and it touches something that was not, it needs to be sanitized again. Seriously, don't take this step lightly.
- Mashing
Involves keeping your mash (the mixture of crushed, malted grains and water) at a specific temperature for a specific amount of time in order to transform the starch in the grains into simpler sugars that yeasts can digest. Some usual conditions would be 63-66 C (145-150 F) for one hour - these give a good balance of body and fermentability. More advanced brewers (or those posessing more advanced equipment) may do step mashes. The temperatures are selected in order to favour different enzymes present in the malt. A mash-out step is usually just heating the mash to 78 C (172 F) - this preserves just a bit of enzymatic activity - alpha-amylase (the one responsible for body) stops working around this temperature.
Regarding water:grain ratio, I personally use around 6 kg (12 lbs) to 23 L water (6 gal).
At the end of mashing, the liquid has to be separated from the solids by either transferring through a sieve (mash tun to boil kettle) or removing the solids (like the case for brew-in-a-bag or all-in-one systems - Braumeister, Grainfather).
- Sparging
Sparging involves pouring water heated to the mash-out temperature over the spent grain in order to extract any lingering bit of sweetness that did not make it to the boil kettle. (I have no idea how you would do this when using brew-in-a-bag, though - edit: apparently you don't, problem solved :) ).
(Extract brewers will usually skip the steps above and just dissolve the extract in water then proceed to the boil)
- Boiling
The purpose of boiling is two-fold. First, to remove dimethylsulfide, or DMS, a compound obtained during mashing that has a vegetable-like flavour usually undesireable in beer. The other purpose is to extract compounds from hops and convert them from alpha- (aromatic) to beta-acids (bitter) to provide bitterness, aroma, and preservative qualities to the beer. (It also concentrates the wort.)
Boiling usually takes 1 hour (as that is the amount of time that usually removes all the DMS). The boil can be longer if one wishes to concentrate the wort further.
Timing and quantities of hop additions are very important to the final hop flavour profile of the beer. The more hops are boiled, the more aroma they lose and the more they impart bitterness to your beer.
- Chilling, transfer to fermenter and pitching yeast
Once the wort is done boiling, it is cooled (usually by applying cold water through a cooling implement - jacket or wort chiller), transferred to the fermenter and the yeast is added (or pitched). The simplest way of doing this is to add the dry yeast directly over the wort. Everything that touches wort after chilling must be sanitized (refer to step 0) - this includes the outside of the yeast packet before opening it.
Gravity readings (OG, original gravity) are taken of the cooled wort using a densimeter or refractometer.
- Fermentation
The fermenter is placed in conditions adequate for the beer style being prepared and the yeast being used (lagers in cold conditions, ales a bit warmer, saisons or kveik yeasts in even warmer conditions) - check the yeast for information on temperatures, fitted with an airlock. When the airlock no longer significantly bubbles (or better yet, the gravity of the wort is where one would expect it to be based on recipe), fermentation is done. I just eyeball it and when I get 1-2 air bubbles / minute in the airlock, I declare it done. YMMV.
- Bottling or kegging
Refer to step 0. Yes, sanitize all bottles. Sanitize that keg. Sanitize your hands and the racking cane. Then sanitize your hands again. Are your hands sanitary? Better do it again, just to make sure.
In order to get carbonation in the finished product, table sugar can be added based on style and carbonation preferences to the finished beer before bottling. The yeast left over in the solution will take care of the rest. A good starting point would be 4-5 g/L of table sugar (or 0.5 to 0.66 oz/gal). I usually add it as syrup made by dissolving the sugar in water, boiling, cooling (covered - refer to step 0) and mixing the whole sugar with the whole batch of beer. Then transfer to bottles or keg, and wait 1-2 weeks. Chill, and serve.
If kegging, you can also force carbonate by adding beer and pressurizing with carbon dioxide for about a week or so.
- Cleaning
Cleaning and sanitizing are the most important steps in brewing. Clean equipment is easier to sanitize. Sanitized equipment is less likely to give you any contamination. While contamination can just sour your beer, it may also cause exploding bottles. ____
Some great advice from the comments:
____ Feedback is welcome, and will edit this post as required. Cheers!
Hey all. I live near Boston, so we have a banging Chinatown. I went there to try and find some Koji rice or Koji-kin... I was going to make Sake. Here's where my adventure begins... Wandering through aisle after aisle of things, no English, even the workers can't understand you... But you know...
So a while ago I stumbled upon some red yeast rice at my local asian store and fell down a rabbit hole started by the linked post (there is another - 159 page - post on those forums dedicated to rice wine - enter at your own peril).
I've managed to create about 2 very small batches of rice wine.
For the first batch I used red yeast rice for saccharification and some brewer's yeast for fermentation - results were good, out of about 3.5 kg cooked rice I got maybe 1 L of wine, slightly cloudy.
Second time I got the same quantities roughly but used red yeast rice for saccharification plus chinese yeast balls for saccharification plus fermentation. Wine was a bit tastier this time and I think the aspect was a bit better - clearer.
For both batches I filled a Kilner jar (3L) fitted with an airlock on a silicone cap and topped up with rice as it liquified (couldn't get the whole amount in there to start with). Mostly eyeballed the quantities. Straining out the solids proved to be very difficult as it turns into a slurry - think stuck mash, but worse.
Finished them off by pasteurizing - I stored them in roughly 300 mL jars - in a pot of water and heating to 70 C. I did notice that the liquid becomes a bit clearer after pasteurization (possibly residual enzymatic activity?).
Overall the drink was very pleasant, slightly fruity but also bread-crust-y. The process however, especially the straining, is very labor intensive and I would love to hear some ideas on improvement.
Hey, everyone! Figured I'd fire up a homebrewing community and see if there's any takers.
I know you're out there, just as I was out there lurking on other similar sites. :D
Come here and brag with your latest creation. I'll start, just brewed an unexpected wee heavy using Eitrhem kveik.
Cheers!
edit: typo