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InitialsDiceBearhttps://github.com/dicebear/dicebearhttps://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/„Initials” (https://github.com/dicebear/dicebear) by „DiceBear”, licensed under „CC0 1.0” (https://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/)DO
Posts
5
Comments
372
Joined
2 yr. ago

  • My family had a flag in our front yard for the first 10 years of my life, because my dad’s brother was in Afghanistan for the majority of that time. That said, we certainly wouldn’t put one up now :/ it’s been tarnished without question.

  • I use ‘du -Lhs’ to check directory size. How long does it take for you to run that command? The only time I’ve ever run into a ‘du’ command taking a long time is when running it over the network to a slow-ass 2010-era system in California for a project I was doing at work with hundreds of terabytes of data and millions of files.

  • I can never seem to get PETG to print nicely. Occasionally it’ll do a decent job on my Bambu P1S but usually not, and don’t even think about trying to use it on any of my other printers… I’ve even had better luck printing with PC!

  • Not so much go bad but kinda like others have mentioned, moisture in the air will always eventually get soaked into it. It’s worse with other filaments - Nylon, PETG, and ABS are particularly bad for it - but PLA definitely shares the same issues. Moisture from the air also doesn’t just suddenly leave - you need to manually and purposefully dry the filament out with a filament dryer or food dryer. Moist PLA can print just fine, but the moisture can also cause the filament to be super brittle, and/or cause little bubbles or breaks in the filament after it comes out of the nozzle.

    Not sure why it would appear to have happened suddenly after a number of years, but I have a suspicion that it probably didn’t happen quite as suddenly as you think it did. Could also be the shape of the roll itself - maybe it’s got little “windows” towards the center of the roll that allowed in more moisture than the closed-off portions and you only just now used the roll up to that point?

  • I’ve got a bambu and I’ve also got an ender 3v3. The 3v3 in my opinion is more or less a slam dunk. Creality really nailed it on that one. I’ve been printing with it pretty much nonstop since I got it at the end of April and it’s never failed me - it’s much more user friendly than all of the other creality machines I’ve used. That said, bambu is also awesome. My bambu (P1S) never fails prints and is also very, very user friendly - even more so than the creality - but comes at a much higher price point for a large build area. IMHO you really can’t go wrong with the creality - the price for size/convenience is really, really nice. And the open source FW is a plus - you can edit many things (I’ve done so)! But of course YMMV.

  • An HBA (host bus adapter) is a SAS controller (or rather, has a SAS controller chip on it). You mostly just want to make sure that your host (the server) has enough physical PCIe lanes to use the whole card, otherwise you’ll get bottlenecked there. You also want to check whether you’ve got 6G SAS or 12G SAS capability. If your drives only support 6 gig, for example, there’s zero point in buying a 12G SAS card, which is actually nice because 6G cards are a lot cheaper. You do want to make sure you actually need an HBA and not a RAID controller though - they’re easily confused. Not sure if I actually answered anything there but I write SAS firmware and use HBAs all the time, so feel free to ask me more and I’ll try to piece together a coherent answer.