Give more info about printer, filament, settings...
General approach is:
- Dry filament
- Tune flow
- Tune retraction distance/speed
- Temp as low as possible
- Stronger part cooling
- Faster travel speed
- Smaller nozzle
It's an Ender 2 pro, ABS filament, default settings? I'm pretty new to this. Thanks for your response, I'll look into those suggestions. I am currently considering getting a filament dryer
If you are new then consider printing in PLA instead, its the easiest material to print with. After PLA, I think PETG is the most popular one, but PETG is stringing king especially if not dried. If you need higher temp resistance and some flexibility ABS is good, but not the easiest to print.
Your print looks good, its only stringing that should be fixed. So yeah, your settings are not off by a lot, dont expect crazzy changes. Calibration should fix your problem, and its not a bad idea to do a quick calibration prints when switching to new filament.
Deffo calibrate your printer if you havent already. Temp tower, flow tower, retraction test. Sometimes its enough to change flow by 1-2%, or temp by 5C, or maybe just increasing travel speed (check travel speed, it could be low at default, bump up to 150 mm/s to help with stringing).
Combing can help, but it can also be a pain especially when printing many thin walls.
Drying filament is always good, but keep in mind that some filaments are just bad with stringing. Also you are looking for optimal settings, dont mess up everything else just to remove stringing. Some level of stringing should be acceptable (its easy to remove)
Most definitely wet filament. Get a little dryer box/food dehydrator and it'll all go away
Calibrate your reaction settings
I believe there's a slicer setting somewhere to always travel within already printed material, which prevents stringing entirely if there's no disconnected pieces in a layer. The problem is I set it a long time ago when I had issues, then forgot it.
In my experience, combing mode will drag the nozzle across the print too violently and often results in the print getting knocked loose depending on the surface area. I'd rather deal with some plastic 'spiderweb' than have to reprint something 17 times. A lighter or heat gun will take care of it in seconds after removing the bulk with your fingers.
That's awesome, thanks for suggesting that. Should be a quick and easy fix for now
While I do love the honeycomb aesthetic, this geometry is highly susceptible to stringing.
You could achieve similar material usage printing a solid outer shell with very low % infill. Easiest way to achieve zero stringing in cases like this using any condition of filament.
So basically just delete the honeycomb then? lol
Yeah, avoid problems wherever you can, best in early phase of modeling
Make sure your filament is dry (new spool doesn’t mean dry) are you Bowden or direct extruder? Lower temp, work on your retraction.
Once the filament is wet can you still save it by drying it out? With this work with tpu too?
If your filament is wet (means there is humidity inside the plastic, not that it got dunked but it absorbed the air humidity). You can dry it by heating it to a temperature that is lower than the temp that would soften the plastic. You can use a filament dryer or food dehydrator. Do. Not use. Your. Oven!!! (Ovens don’t have temperature management precise enough and will melt your plastic spool)
To keep your already dried filament, you can keep it in a sealed box with desiccants.
Bowden, and thank you for the suggestions
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Dealt with this recently with a weirdly oozy filament. The fix for me ended up being more retraction AND pressure advance in klipper.
