surfing

cross-posted from: https://jlai.lu/post/12356398

> First out at sunrise, glassy shoulder high sets, got bigger towards the end of session when I took that picture. > > Beach break with several peaks, this one is the second biggest of the beach. I started there but ended my session on a smaller peak (re-shoulder high) 500m away. > > Waves we're closing a bit, they were slower the day before.

How is your local spot? what type of crowd is it? How reliable is it? Any funny stories or myths?