Climbing
- Bern 2023 - World Championship - Women’s finalwww.youtube.com Women's Boulder final || Bern 2023
The 18th edition of the IFSC World Championships is organised in Bern, Switzerland, from 1 to 12 August. A total of 428 athletes from 54 countries and territ...
- Bern 2023 - World Championships - Men's boulder finalswww.youtube.com Men's Boulder final || Bern 2023
The 18th edition of the IFSC World Championships is organised in Bern, Switzerland, from 1 to 12 August. A total of 428 athletes from 54 countries and territ...
First final of the World Championships in Bern starts today (18:30 local time) with the Men’s Boulder final.
Saturday will be Women’s Boulder final and on Sunday Lead final for both men and women.
Europeans need a VPN to watch the finals on Youtube.
Playlist for all other upcoming live streams: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLK6KXqT4FKpMdjVT7cv4exoNNCbOSGSQh
- "Kivinen sydän", the name of this boulder, means a stone heart.
YouTube Video
Click to view this content.
- Is the First Female 8C+ Coming Soon? [Article]www.ukclimbing.com ARTICLE: Is the First Female 8C+ Coming Soon?
Here's a look at twelve women who could shortly make bouldering history… There is no sport quite like rock climbing, where both women and men compete on even playing fields – be it up a...
My money is on Brooke!
- Getting into trad climbing - any tips?
I'm getting into trad climbing, after quite a few years of indoor and outdoor sport and bouldering. I'm very aware that trad climbing involves more risk, especially if you climb above your ability and/or are bad/inexperienced at placing runners. Does anyone here have tips on how best to practice protecting a route to the point where you feel safe enough to climb a difficult crux with only trad protection below you?
- Ryuichi Murai - Livin Large V15/V16 (8C/+)www.instagram.com Ryuichi Murai / 村井隆一 on Instagram: "Livin' Large(V16/8C+)✅ Mega psyched! I've done the main goal of this tour! This line, which is over 8m high, was called the Real Big Project at the time. It was very intimidating to imagine the climbers who tried this in the past fell from the same height as a balcony on the third floor. The first half consisted of compression moves with friction slopers, and the second half was a mental battle(V11-ish) that required delicate footwork. It was only possible to try in perfect conditions in the early morning (~9:00), evening (17:00~), or cloudy day. However, the approach takes 45 minutes, so early in the morning there weren't enough time to warm up. In the evening there's only a short time after the rock cool down untill the sunset, so a cloudy day is the best. Due to friction issues, the damage to the finger skin was quite severe. If I tried, I had to rest for 2-3 days. So this cloudy day near the end of the tour was my last chance. The conditions were great on this day and every move worked perfectly on the second try. I just focused on each hold in front of me, and didn't feel any fear of heights. It would have been really bad if I missed the last move. I'm glad I climbed, but more than that I'm glad I didn't fall. Thank you to the tour members who helped me with the big hike for days🙏 And huge respect @nalle_hukkataival for putting this mega up!! ____________________________________ 今ツアー最大の目標である「Livin' Large(六段)」が登れた! 発見当時Real Big Projectと呼ばれていたこのラインは高さ8mを超え、過去にこれをトライしたクライマー達が3階のベランダと同等の高さから落ちていたことを想像すると初見の威圧感は半端なかった。 最初の数日間ロープ練に費やした結果、このラインは前半は強度の高いコンプレッションシーケンスで、後半は繊細なフットワークが求められる3段ほどのメンタルバトルであることが判明。そして日光がもろに当たるこのラインを完璧な状態でトライ出来るのは早朝(〜9時)か夕方(17時〜)、もしくはたまに訪れる曇り日に限られた。ただアプローチに45分かかり、早朝は十分にウォームアップする時間が取れず、夕方は影ってから日没までの僅かな時間しか取れないことから、ベストは曇り日を狙うことだった。またフリクション系の課題で、指皮のダメージがかなり酷く、1日トライしたら2〜3日レストを挟まなければならず、ツアー終了間近のこの曇り日はまさにラストチャンスと言える状況だったかもしれない。 この日は気温が低く、コンディションは最高で、1トライ目から4日間出来ていなかった前半パートを突破出来た。が、5mを超えた辺りでビビってしまい諦めのフォール。それから1時間ほど心を落ち着かせてからのセカンドトライ。このトライは全てのムーブが完璧に決まった。ただ目の前にある1手1手に集中しすぎて気付けばリップを掴んでた。高さの恐怖はもはや全く感じなかったけど、もし最後のリップ取りでミスってたら本当にやばかった。登れて良かったけど、それ以上に落ちなくて良かった。 何日もビッグハイクをこなして協力してくれたツアーメンバーに感謝です🙏 Photo @naoki__shimatani @rokdo_team"
9,403 likes, 95 comments - ryu____1 on July 25, 2023: "Livin' Large(V16/8C+)✅ Mega psyched! I've done the main goal of this tour! This line, which i..."
Interestingly it was originally graded 8C by Nalle. Webb also gave it 8C. Raboutou however graded it 8C+ and Murai seems to agree with it given his IG post.
https://www.hardestclimbs.com/bouldering/murai
- IFSC Medical Commission Doctors Volker Schöffl and Eugen Burtscher have resigned in protest
The Instagram post mentioned in the 8a article was also reposted by other athletes.
2 weeks ago Alannah Yip also made an Instagram post about it which was also reposted by other athletes. Link for those that don't have Instagram
IFSC has released a statement yesterday: https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/news/1004-ifsc-statement-athletes-health-and-the-ifsc-medical-commission
- Performance/all around shoes for climbers with wide feet and heels.
I thought I should post this to help save some people some time and frustration when trying to find some shoes.
My street shoe size is 10 1/2 wide with my left foot being roughly half a size smaller and the middle of my foot is pretty high volume. My single biggest problem is always being able to use heel hooks as there is typically this gap of about a 1/4 to 1/2 ish inch gap at the bottom of the heel. I prefer some knuckling in my toes and size for my smaller foot.
I boulder pretty much exclusively, live in Colorado.
With that out of the way my new current daily driver is the Tenaya Indalo (8.5) the Tenaya Iati (8.5) was a very close second. The indalo is slightly wider overall. Other shoes I have tried that have felt like they would work were the Ocun Ozone HV (10) and Ocun Bullet (10). The Scarpa Instinct VSR (9.5) also felt very good but was sized half a size too small I think as I couldn't bend my foot at all.
I tried multiple different shoes and vendors recently and found most shoes too narrow in the midsole area to downsize enough. This includes Mad Rock, Red Chili, La Sportiva.
- Villars World Cup - Women lead final 2023
YouTube Video
Click to view this content.
I thought it was a great final.
- MYSTIC RIVER - with Shawn Raboutou & Giuliano Cameroni
YouTube Video
Click to view this content.
- MYSTIC RIVER - with Shawn Raboutou & Giuliano Cameroni [Mellow]
YouTube Video
Click to view this content.
- L'Angle du Sérac
YouTube Video
Click to view this content.
I spent a couple of weeks bouldering in Fontainebleau and in the south of Switzerland. This was my favorite problem from the trip. I'm not a great slab climber so it took me a while to figure this out and I had a lot of fun trying. If you ask me, a rock won't get more beautiful than this.
- The differences in beta between Janja and the other climbers
YouTube Video
Click to view this content.
- 5 Ways to Maximise Your Grip (without a Hangboard)
YouTube Video
Click to view this content.
0:31 Footwork 3:17 Take bad holds slowly 3:46 Use momentum 4:20 Flexibility - for bringing hips closer to wall, better use of legs 4:40 Use full-crimps
- Recap Men Lead Finals | Innsbruck | IFSC Worldcup 2023
YouTube Video
Click to view this content.