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When the OLED decks first came out, many people found they had wifi issues after attempting to connect to 5Ghz wifi 6 enabled routers. This has thankfully been fixed with software updates, and is no longer an issue on new OLED decks.

Unfortunately, some of the refurbished OLED decks will still have this issue when first turned on. The problem will be fixed once the Deck updates, but you have to successfully connect to the internet before you can update, and this issue can make that hard to do.

The issue can also affect you if you do a factory reset on your OLED deck or reinstall SteamOS.

The issue: When connecting to a 5Ghz Wifi 6 network with certain Wifi 6 features turned on, the wifi card on the deck will crash. After that, it won't connect to any network until the Deck is rebooted.

The fix: First, you'll have to reboot the deck to restart the wifi. If it still doesn't show wifi networks after rebooting, you may have to factory reset by holding the ". . ." button while

This is a post I wish I never had to make. Forgive my grammar and spelling as I am a bit emotional.

My Steam Deck was stolen and I just had it for less than 2 months.

It has been more than 2 weeks since it happened but it still hurts the same. I wanted to make this post because it was a very costly mistake from my side and I don't want it to happen to anyone else.

<story>

It happened when I was shifting from one house to another house and there were lots of maintenance workers at the destination house. After I kept my luggage inside the house, I left to buy some essentials. My mom was the only person left who was watching over the stuff. By the time I came back, the workers had left. I thought I have some free time so decided to pull the Steam Deck out but it was missing.

<vent>

I was absolutely devastated; I can't even begin to explain in words what it felt like. I asked, through the person who hired the workers, if they took it. But all the workers refused. I was just cru

Hello all groovy people –

I released my Renoise controls for the Steam Deck to Steam today as 'RenoiseDeck'. Not perfect, but pretty usable. Here's how:

– Left shoulder button = Edit on / off (Esc). Toggles entering notes. – D-pad = Arrow keys, move around. – (X) = delete. (A) = play / stop. (Y) and (B) = notes C and G for jamming, entering notes, previewing sounds etc.

– Left mousepad = 4 x 4 grid with a chromatic octave of notes starting at C on the top left. On top of of the 12 notes, there's the stopper (Caps Lock) and a couple of useful hex values. Right shoulder button shifts the grid to numbers and more hexes and effect command letters.

– Left hand back buttons: Top = F4 (Copy), Bottom = F5 (Paste). – Right hand back buttons: Top = Alt, Bottom = Ctrl. – Right shoulder button = Shift.

With these, you can: – Shift + arrows = make selection in the editor. – Alt + arrows = select instruments. – Ctrl + arrows = manipulate the pattern sequencer.

– Alt + copy / paste = Copy / pas

SteamOS 3.6 is live on the "main" update channel, and it is very buggy. (Note: the most bleeding edge update channel is called main. 3.6 is only live on the "main" channel, not any of the stable or beta channels).

I had switched to main to get 3.5 early, and 3.5 had spent so much time in the main channel that it's been very stable for the last few months. However 3.6 has been rough, game mode would crash and restart everytime a decky plugin did something, and it broke my desktop mode completely. I've downgraded to beta-candidate (which is still 3.5) and things are much better.

I know that staying off the most bleeding edge update channels if you want a stable experience is common sense, but I think a lot of people got impatient for 3.5 and may have been lulled into a false sense of security by how stable the 3.5 main update builds were recently.

Easiest way is by using remote play, you'll want to change settings to enable audio on the host, and possibly lower stream bandwidth.

The guide also has another more in depth method.

Btrfs is a filesystem (like FAT, NTFS, and ext4), but has some distinct advantages:

• Increased storage - thanks to compression and file deduplication, Btrfs can save you considerable amounts of storage. I have 517G of files on my Deck's SSD, but it only uses up 410G of storage to hold those files. Compressing your filesystem can also shorten load times, especially for slower memory devices like the SD card.
• Snapshotting - save snapshots of the file system and easily roll back if there's a problem.

Converting to Btrfs is easy to do, and doesn't require having you to resetup/reconfigure your deck. The linked gitlab project will do the conversion, keep all your existing files and settings, and set all the Btrfs configurations for you. The file conversion will persist through updates, and it will setup automatic deduplication of files on the drive. It also allows the Deck to automatically mount Btrfs converted SD cards, and to format new cards in the same format.

Only potential down

Not sure if this has been posted previously, but it seems that sometimes games/applications can get muted from desktop mode. I

I launched Persona 5 Royal this morning and was surprised to see the audio not working. After doing many things such as trying different layers of proton, I went into desktop mode and saw that the game had been muted. After un-muting it, it works again. I do play Persona 5 in desktop mode sometimes when I feel like streaming it for some friends to watch. But I'd never run into this muting issue before. I must have pressed something and it made some combination that would mute the 'application.'

Anyhow, everything works fine now. Hope this helps someone.

TLDR; Games might get muted from desktop mode. If audio isn't working in a game you are playing, go into desktop mode and launch the game. Then click on the sound icon and look under applications to see if the game has indeed been muted.

Useful information about SD cards.

You can open desktop mode inside of gamemode, just like any other game or application. I find it easier to use most desktop apps this way instead of adding them individually to steam.

To do this, download this script. Save it as a script and make the script executable. Finally right click the file and "add to steam".

Some important notes with this: You can't exit steam while running the desktop this way, so apps that require closing steam (like steam rom manager) won't work. There are also a few apps that do weird things, like cryoutilities shows up super tiny this way. But generally most everything works.

This is probably old news to most people but I'm posting here in case it helps anyone else! Turns out there's a power management setting you can disable that really improved the wireless reliability for me.

You first have to enable Developer Mode in Settings > System. Then you should see a new menu right at the bottom of the settings list called Developer. Under Miscellaneous you should see the option Enable Wifi Power Management.

Turning this off completely solved the problems I was having with Wifi being either really slow or dropping out completely to the point where it was almost unusable.